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February 21, 2010

Filed under: Uncategorized — admin @ 1:55 pm
It has been over 20 years now since I first crossed the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas. Then for me aboard my Grand Banks 42, it was paper charts, hand drawn anchorages and a compass. Wow has navigation changed! Now I have color GPS charts plotters and Monty & Sara Lewis’ Explorer Charts that are so accurate and precise that I am no longer soaking is sweat with nervous perspiration wondering if I am where I estimated or one island off course! What a joy cruising the Bahamas is and so much easier. One thing however has not changed, no matter how much planning and preparation, there are always changes in the itinerary. While we planned on cruising more to the south of theExumas, weather lead us back through the Abacos, so ALWAYS take every possible chart!

Northerners blew in like a series of fireworks on a 4th of July celebration. As soon as one clocked around another one was only a few days out. But still between these blasts of cold air, the experience of an infinite number of shades of turquoise water passing beneath the bow of our 36’ Monk Trawler, Set Free, over the three months aboard was breathtaking!

My wife of four months, Susan, and our Teddy Bear Schnoodle puppy, Baci, [means ‘kiss’ in Italian] joined me on their first cruise to the Bahamas. My hope was that Susan would not feel she was experiencing martyrdom by marriage. It turned out to be a [mostly] special time together. Susan had cruised with me on several weekends to Sarasota area and a two weeker to the Dry Tortugas out of St. Pete. This and a week of training with Captain Patty through SeaSense, a women’s only week long training cruise, was all Susan had experienced. By the time we returned three months later, she was seasoned and very enthusiastic about cruising the Bahamas again. Although she has mentioned something about getting a larger traweler!

Having cruised by trawler from Lake Champlain to the Dry Tortugas and Catalina to Cabo San Lucas, I could not wait to experience the Central Bahamas. I had cruised the Abacos numerous times and loved it, but the challenge of a new experience was captivating. Susan, Baci, and I were committed to live another dream. The real estate market was virtually nonexistent in January 2009, so we decided that there was no reason to wait. I had observed many business associates attempting to ‘play it safe’, but we decided that for us security was an illusion. So we went for it.

Fuel and our last purchases of perishables were obtained in Marathon, so we departed up the Keys to Rodriquez Key off Key Largo. The forecast was for at least 48 hours before the next Northerner, so we cast off the lines and headed out. We arrived off Rodriquez just prior to sunset. The anchorage was calm, as we relaxed on the bridge with cheese, crackers & wine. It was beautiful that evening and in a word: tranquil. All of a sudden the pitch of the generator engine changed … so much for tranquility! I looked over the port side at the generator exhaust, and no water was coming out to cool it. I shut the generator off hoping the sea strainer was clogged. No luck. Next, I checked the impeller. With tiny bolts not much larger than a #2 pencil lead and the fear of dropping them into the bilge, I shared my thoughts about engineers who design generators to torment clumsy cruising folk like myself. The thought of returning to Marathon for repairs instead of heading to Bimini the next morning made me sick. Fortunately the impeller was in pieces, so I had found the cause. A new impeller was installed and presto the cruise was on!

We only cruise at a shade over 7 knots, so departing from Rodriquez at sunrise allowed us to be pushed across the Gulf Stream to Bimini at over 8.5 knots. At two gph, that is inexpensive travel! The mixed seas were no more than 3’ with winds out of the southwest for a safe and comfortable passage. I had always gone out of Lake Worth to West End on Grand Bahama Island, so this was a new experience. As we approached Bimini, I had trouble picking up the markers at the entrance to Alicetown.. I called ahead to the Sea Crest Marina, and in a friendly manner explained that the markers were gone, but just head straight toward the pink townhouses, avoid the sand bars and then head north up the channel. Susan was up on the bow looking for sandbars, but for a Nashville Tennessee native, who is used to 6 inches of visibility on Old Hickory Lake, we had a problem. “Joe, the water is clear, looks like there are sandbars everywhere!” I told her not point out anything unless it looks like a problem. After 5 minutes of silence for Susan, [not normal], I realized I said the wrong thing. After an apology from me, I explained that 2 feet is white and it becomes darker blue as the depths increase. Literally within a week Susan was a looking at depths like a local. But that was not helpful at the moment! Fortunately the GPS chart and the Explorer charts were spot on and we got in with no trouble. Here we had the good fortune of tying up at the Sea Crest Marina behind Paul and Barb Fruehauf’s beautiful ketch, ‘Faraway Eyes’ & met LH and Sherrill Callahan aboard ‘Connie Marie’. We had the privilege of catching up with them throughout the Berrys and Exumas. Their years in the Bahamas and points South were a great help to say the least.

There are a few times in every cruise, where I wish I could swap boats for a day or two. The passage out of Bimini around North Rock to Slaughter harbor between Little and Great Stirrup Cay in the Berrys was one of them. Being winter time and an 80+ mile trip at 7 knots was not going to work as a daylight only run. Since the GPS was accurate out of Alicetown, we left at 2 AM to assure ourselves of plenty of light entering Slaughter Harbor for the first time. Many people skip the Berrys, because they are isolated, but that is why we love them. We loved the Berrys.

 

May 5, 2009

Cruise from St. Pete to Marathon Florida

Filed under: Cruise Florida — admin @ 5:07 pm

St. Petersburg to Exumas

aboard

36’ Monk Trawler - “Set Free”

 

Introduction & Preparation

 St. Pete to Marathon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I love reading boating magazines. If I only could afford one of those million dollar yachts, I could store everything I need. But, if I could afford a million dollar yacht, I would buy more stuff and have the same problem and need a two million dollar yacht. It is the bane of boating! You see, by cruising standards, I am poor and I don’t want to work. I want to cruise on my boat rather than do the nine to five gig. I own a terrific Monk 36 trawler, and she is old enough to vote. She is beautiful, sea worthy and paid for! Ed Monk designed her years ago with the same lines as all the tuna boats he build out in San Diego. The problem is that many articles are about bigger and more expensive styles of cruising. I would love to partake, but I have not won the lottery! My father said, “Joe, your problem is that you have champagne tastes and a beer income.” Thus to prepare for a longer cruise is simply about stuffing ten pounds of potatoes into a five gallon bag, because I can’t afford a bigger bag [boat].

Last year, my wife, Susan, and I cruised to the Dry Tortugas from St. Petersburg. It was to be a straight shot in winds below ten knots. A beautiful night cruise was what the NOAA promised. As we cleared Egmont Key in Tampa Bay, I saw dark clouds and lightening ahead. Twenty three hours later of 20 knot winds and four foot beam seas my trust in weatherman dropped like the stock market in 2008. So, as we prepared for our next cruise, we decided to go short runs whenever possible. Thus my trust in weather forecasts meant they would not have as great an impact! We were planning to cruise the Middle Bahamas, and weather would determine how far we got. Well, January 2009 was the month of the Northerners and the same weather continued into March!

In St. Petersburg, there is a great opportunity to provision our trawler, Set Free. Susan first goes to Mazzaro’s. It is an old world Italian grocery mecca. We stuffed our freezer with their prepared dinners and filled the refrigerator with several meals, too. The prices are great and the food is like living in Florence … Italy, not Alabama! Costco and Wal-Mart were our next stops for basic provisions. Plastic and no glass or paper is our rule. Glass breaks and paper attracts bugs. We labeled our can goods’ tops with a permanent marker, so we could identify them from above as we stacked them under the settee in plastic bins. We bought lots of Rubbermaid containers so that we could place everything in containers, and avoid cardboard as well.

Next we had to stock the engine room. Every Captain is different, but I would recommend several things as necessities. Filters, primary and secondary [get double what you think you will possibly need] for both oil and fuel are vital. Next would be fluids: crankcase oil, transmission fluid, hydraulic fluids for steering, bow thruster oil, distilled water for batteries & grease for all fittings. Impellers are another must which go out regularly, especially if you don’t have a replacement on board! I try to have two ‘experts’ go over my supplies. For me, it is Chad at Embree Marine and the staff at Diesel Power on 21st in St. Pete. Spare bilge pump & switch, water pump and macerator pumps can make a cruise or ruin it. Your mechanics can add things according to your needs. Don’t skimp because you’ll use the spares sometimes, and you don’t want to try to get them in the Exumas!

Medical is another area. While I prefer red wine and vodka tonics for all ailments, Susan is more diversified! First is the dog. While in Marathon getting our certificate of health for the dog, the vet offered his ‘dog kit’ for $50. It has antibiotics, vomit medicine etc. We were better provisioned for Baci, our dog, than for humans! Ace bandages, water proof tape, gauze patches, diarrhea, seasick, constipation medicines, Ibuprofen, Aleve, aspirin, band-aids, antibiotic ointment, ice packs, muscle relievers, back pain aids and a chiropractor etc. etc. Consult your doctor and buy stock in Walgreens!

Next are specifics for the Bahamas. Hawaiian sling to catch lobster; peek bucket [bucket with clear plexiglass bottom to view bottom from dinghy]; fishing lures for mahi mahi, wahoo, and bottom fishing gear; mallet to pound conch; wide brimmed hats with straps or clips; sun screen; swim fins; booties; swim masks; Tevas and sandals, and plenty of sunscreen.

Finally was potty training the dog to the boat. We went to Home Depot and bought a 2’x 3’ piece of astroturf and a piece of sod. The sod went on the astroturf on our back deck, and Baci took to it within 24 hours. Massive applause and treats for her first success! This saved late night runs to beaches and trips in poor weather.

The west coast of Florida is a beautiful cruising ground. A dozen articles could be written and no anchorage or marina be repeated, but here are our favorites to add to your list! We keep Set Free on the floating docks at the Harborage Marina in St. Petersburg, FL. It is just behind the Coast Guard Station, which ought to tell you something regarding protection. The trolley passes by to take you downtown. The Salvador Dali museum is next door. We have a great sandwich shop at the entrance to the Harborage run by our friends, Phil & Jen. Jeremy is the manager and makes the best hot pastrami sandwich you have ever eaten. Also in walking distance is Fish Tales, our kick back waterfront diner with killer breadsticks and seafood fajitas.

From the Harborage it is a short day’s run to an anchorage off Moore’s Stone Crab House between Longboat Key and Jewfish Key. Depths are over 10 feet with good holding and clean water. Walks on the beach are a short dingy ride to under the bridge. The walk around to the Gulf is very serene and sunsets are spectacular. There is also an island that appears at low tide which is great for dogs to run freely. Baci attempts in vain to rid the island of birds. Somehow a ten lb. Schnoodle never gives up, and the birds enjoy tormenting her! We enjoy grilling out one evening and practicing gluttony at Moore’s Stonecrab Restaurant the second night. There is every type of seafood imaginable, and the service is terrific. The different choices of platters — with blacked or grilled fish, shrimp, scallops, along with crab or lobster –will melt in your mouth.

crew-at-moores-stone-crab-longboat-key1Joe & Susan & Baci with “Set Free” in background at Moore’s Stone Crab.

Next, we enjoy Sarasota. We have anchored off the park outside Marina Jack’s, anchored inside the harbor in bad weather north of the docks and tied up at Marina Jack’s. The staff is very friendly; and the park is a nice place to enjoy the sunset, walk your dog and watch the lights at the porpoise fountain. We enjoy several days at anchor and then a night in a marina. The restaurants at Marina Jack’s are very good, and I love looking at all the boats in the marina. I am not sure of the difference between yacht lust and yacht fantasy in walking the docks, but either way it is fun to chat and visit with other cruisers. We invariably share thoughts and experiences on various cruise destinations and boat equipment.

sunset-with-porpoise-statue-sarasota-from-marina-jacks

Porpoise Statue Fountain in Sarasota Florida from Marina Jack’s

 

Venice is a short run down from Sarasota with a good inlet to the Gulf of Mexico. Anchorages are available off the ICW, and the Crow’s Nest Marina is a convenient tie up. They have complimentary bicycles to ride, and since Venice is very flat, it is a pleasant experience. The downstairs restraurant is casual, and upstairs is fancier. I have enjoyed the food at both. They had live music downstairs, and we very much enjoyed a duo that played. A small island is off the Crow’s Nest docks. This is a pleasant dinghy destination for a picnic and swim.

Marco Island is our next destination. I have gone between Venice and Marco via inlets and the ICW. Both are pleasant runs. Marco River Marina is a wonderful place. Bruce is the dockmaster and could not be nicer. They have a first rate marine store; and their diesel mechanic, Peter, is from England and very good. I sense that I could have blind folded him and he could rebuild my Perkins! I would not hestitate to have him look over your engine and outfit you with spare parts. He is not there on weekends usually, so stop there on a week day.

The next run is longer, and the destination is quite remote. Flamingo in the Everglades was once named ‘End of the World’ and with good reason. The marina was wiped out in Hurricane Wilma, but the docks have been replaced and the ranger station is operational with various tours and hikes available. The channel in is well marked, and the harbor marina is very well protected. Water and electrticity are all that is available, but it is a nature lover’s paradise. We were escorted in by a group of porpoise as the sun was setting. Baci, our schnoodle, spent the whole time growling and barking at them as Susan sat on the bow, watching and applauding their antics under our bow. Flamingo is best in the winter, when it is cold enough to avoid the blood thirsty mosquitos!

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Set Free at Flamingo Marina in Florida Everglades

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Osprey at Flamingo

The run from Flamingo to Marathon is a great contrast. We leave the remoteness of the Everglades for the hub of the Central Florida Keys. The harbor of Boot Key has sure changed in the last twenty years. It is cleaner in the harbor and very organized, with countless mooring balls and a City Marina dinghy dock that must have at least 100 dinghies at any given time. The 9AM CruiserNet, VHF CH 68, is very helpful; and a Saturday afternoon get together for vessels departing to the Bahamas is often under the Tiki Hut at the City Marina. We enjoyed the fellowship on a mooring as well as a day at the Marathon Marina. Bring your conch shell horn to blow at sunset on the dock at the Marathon Marina. The people are both friendly and super helpful regarding cruising. The Vet at Keys Animal Hospital, Robert DeField, lived in the Berry Islands in the Bahamas and is super helpful. He also has a pet medical kit available for you to take. After a few days in Marathon, we went south to Bahia Honda Key. The anchorage was terrific between the bridges. Some had said that the holding was only fair, but our Danforth held great. I always dive down to verify that it is set, but we had no problem in 15 knot winds

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 Mooring in Marathon - Florida Keys

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Anchorage at Bahia Honda in Florida Keys

Next, we cruised up the Hawk Channel to Rodriquez Key off Key Largo for our journey to the Bahamas … but that is another story!

"First dreams appear impossible; then they seem improbable, and finally they become inevitable."