St. Petersburg to Exumas
aboard
36’ Monk Trawler - “Set Free”
Introduction & Preparation
St. Pete to Marathon
I love reading boating magazines. If I only could afford one of those million dollar yachts, I could store everything I need. But, if I could afford a million dollar yacht, I would buy more stuff and have the same problem and need a two million dollar yacht. It is the bane of boating! You see, by cruising standards, I am poor and I don’t want to work. I want to cruise on my boat rather than do the nine to five gig. I own a terrific Monk 36 trawler, and she is old enough to vote. She is beautiful, sea worthy and paid for! Ed Monk designed her years ago with the same lines as all the tuna boats he build out in San Diego. The problem is that many articles are about bigger and more expensive styles of cruising. I would love to partake, but I have not won the lottery! My father said, “Joe, your problem is that you have champagne tastes and a beer income.” Thus to prepare for a longer cruise is simply about stuffing ten pounds of potatoes into a five gallon bag, because I can’t afford a bigger bag [boat].
Last year, my wife, Susan, and I cruised to the Dry Tortugas from St. Petersburg. It was to be a straight shot in winds below ten knots. A beautiful night cruise was what the NOAA promised. As we cleared Egmont Key in Tampa Bay, I saw dark clouds and lightening ahead. Twenty three hours later of 20 knot winds and four foot beam seas my trust in weatherman dropped like the stock market in 2008. So, as we prepared for our next cruise, we decided to go short runs whenever possible. Thus my trust in weather forecasts meant they would not have as great an impact! We were planning to cruise the Middle Bahamas, and weather would determine how far we got. Well, January 2009 was the month of the Northerners and the same weather continued into March!
In St. Petersburg, there is a great opportunity to provision our trawler, Set Free. Susan first goes to Mazzaro’s. It is an old world Italian grocery mecca. We stuffed our freezer with their prepared dinners and filled the refrigerator with several meals, too. The prices are great and the food is like living in Florence … Italy, not Alabama! Costco and Wal-Mart were our next stops for basic provisions. Plastic and no glass or paper is our rule. Glass breaks and paper attracts bugs. We labeled our can goods’ tops with a permanent marker, so we could identify them from above as we stacked them under the settee in plastic bins. We bought lots of Rubbermaid containers so that we could place everything in containers, and avoid cardboard as well.
Next we had to stock the engine room. Every Captain is different, but I would recommend several things as necessities. Filters, primary and secondary [get double what you think you will possibly need] for both oil and fuel are vital. Next would be fluids: crankcase oil, transmission fluid, hydraulic fluids for steering, bow thruster oil, distilled water for batteries & grease for all fittings. Impellers are another must which go out regularly, especially if you don’t have a replacement on board! I try to have two ‘experts’ go over my supplies. For me, it is Chad at Embree Marine and the staff at Diesel Power on 21st in St. Pete. Spare bilge pump & switch, water pump and macerator pumps can make a cruise or ruin it. Your mechanics can add things according to your needs. Don’t skimp because you’ll use the spares sometimes, and you don’t want to try to get them in the Exumas!
Medical is another area. While I prefer red wine and vodka tonics for all ailments, Susan is more diversified! First is the dog. While in Marathon getting our certificate of health for the dog, the vet offered his ‘dog kit’ for $50. It has antibiotics, vomit medicine etc. We were better provisioned for Baci, our dog, than for humans! Ace bandages, water proof tape, gauze patches, diarrhea, seasick, constipation medicines, Ibuprofen, Aleve, aspirin, band-aids, antibiotic ointment, ice packs, muscle relievers, back pain aids and a chiropractor etc. etc. Consult your doctor and buy stock in Walgreens!
Next are specifics for the Bahamas. Hawaiian sling to catch lobster; peek bucket [bucket with clear plexiglass bottom to view bottom from dinghy]; fishing lures for mahi mahi, wahoo, and bottom fishing gear; mallet to pound conch; wide brimmed hats with straps or clips; sun screen; swim fins; booties; swim masks; Tevas and sandals, and plenty of sunscreen.
Finally was potty training the dog to the boat. We went to Home Depot and bought a 2’x 3’ piece of astroturf and a piece of sod. The sod went on the astroturf on our back deck, and Baci took to it within 24 hours. Massive applause and treats for her first success! This saved late night runs to beaches and trips in poor weather.
The west coast of Florida is a beautiful cruising ground. A dozen articles could be written and no anchorage or marina be repeated, but here are our favorites to add to your list! We keep Set Free on the floating docks at the Harborage Marina in St. Petersburg, FL. It is just behind the Coast Guard Station, which ought to tell you something regarding protection. The trolley passes by to take you downtown. The Salvador Dali museum is next door. We have a great sandwich shop at the entrance to the Harborage run by our friends, Phil & Jen. Jeremy is the manager and makes the best hot pastrami sandwich you have ever eaten. Also in walking distance is Fish Tales, our kick back waterfront diner with killer breadsticks and seafood fajitas.
From the Harborage it is a short day’s run to an anchorage off Moore’s Stone Crab House between Longboat Key and Jewfish Key. Depths are over 10 feet with good holding and clean water. Walks on the beach are a short dingy ride to under the bridge. The walk around to the Gulf is very serene and sunsets are spectacular. There is also an island that appears at low tide which is great for dogs to run freely. Baci attempts in vain to rid the island of birds. Somehow a ten lb. Schnoodle never gives up, and the birds enjoy tormenting her! We enjoy grilling out one evening and practicing gluttony at Moore’s Stonecrab Restaurant the second night. There is every type of seafood imaginable, and the service is terrific. The different choices of platters — with blacked or grilled fish, shrimp, scallops, along with crab or lobster –will melt in your mouth.
Joe & Susan & Baci with “Set Free” in background at Moore’s Stone Crab.
Next, we enjoy Sarasota. We have anchored off the park outside Marina Jack’s, anchored inside the harbor in bad weather north of the docks and tied up at Marina Jack’s. The staff is very friendly; and the park is a nice place to enjoy the sunset, walk your dog and watch the lights at the porpoise fountain. We enjoy several days at anchor and then a night in a marina. The restaurants at Marina Jack’s are very good, and I love looking at all the boats in the marina. I am not sure of the difference between yacht lust and yacht fantasy in walking the docks, but either way it is fun to chat and visit with other cruisers. We invariably share thoughts and experiences on various cruise destinations and boat equipment.

Porpoise Statue Fountain in Sarasota Florida from Marina Jack’s
Venice is a short run down from Sarasota with a good inlet to the Gulf of Mexico. Anchorages are available off the ICW, and the Crow’s Nest Marina is a convenient tie up. They have complimentary bicycles to ride, and since Venice is very flat, it is a pleasant experience. The downstairs restraurant is casual, and upstairs is fancier. I have enjoyed the food at both. They had live music downstairs, and we very much enjoyed a duo that played. A small island is off the Crow’s Nest docks. This is a pleasant dinghy destination for a picnic and swim.
Marco Island is our next destination. I have gone between Venice and Marco via inlets and the ICW. Both are pleasant runs. Marco River Marina is a wonderful place. Bruce is the dockmaster and could not be nicer. They have a first rate marine store; and their diesel mechanic, Peter, is from England and very good. I sense that I could have blind folded him and he could rebuild my Perkins! I would not hestitate to have him look over your engine and outfit you with spare parts. He is not there on weekends usually, so stop there on a week day.
The next run is longer, and the destination is quite remote. Flamingo in the Everglades was once named ‘End of the World’ and with good reason. The marina was wiped out in Hurricane Wilma, but the docks have been replaced and the ranger station is operational with various tours and hikes available. The channel in is well marked, and the harbor marina is very well protected. Water and electrticity are all that is available, but it is a nature lover’s paradise. We were escorted in by a group of porpoise as the sun was setting. Baci, our schnoodle, spent the whole time growling and barking at them as Susan sat on the bow, watching and applauding their antics under our bow. Flamingo is best in the winter, when it is cold enough to avoid the blood thirsty mosquitos!

Set Free at Flamingo Marina in Florida Everglades

Osprey at Flamingo
The run from Flamingo to Marathon is a great contrast. We leave the remoteness of the Everglades for the hub of the Central Florida Keys. The harbor of Boot Key has sure changed in the last twenty years. It is cleaner in the harbor and very organized, with countless mooring balls and a City Marina dinghy dock that must have at least 100 dinghies at any given time. The 9AM CruiserNet, VHF CH 68, is very helpful; and a Saturday afternoon get together for vessels departing to the Bahamas is often under the Tiki Hut at the City Marina. We enjoyed the fellowship on a mooring as well as a day at the Marathon Marina. Bring your conch shell horn to blow at sunset on the dock at the Marathon Marina. The people are both friendly and super helpful regarding cruising. The Vet at Keys Animal Hospital, Robert DeField, lived in the Berry Islands in the Bahamas and is super helpful. He also has a pet medical kit available for you to take. After a few days in Marathon, we went south to Bahia Honda Key. The anchorage was terrific between the bridges. Some had said that the holding was only fair, but our Danforth held great. I always dive down to verify that it is set, but we had no problem in 15 knot winds

Mooring in Marathon - Florida Keys

Anchorage at Bahia Honda in Florida Keys
Next, we cruised up the Hawk Channel to Rodriquez Key off Key Largo for our journey to the Bahamas … but that is another story!